16f628a Simple Programming
Programming PIC Microcontrollers: PIC microcontrollers are a very useful and versatile tool for use in many electronic projects. They are very inexpensive and easy to find. They are also very powerful and many are capable of speeds up to 64 MIPS using the internal oscillator block. Oct 16, 2017. Simple projects ideas using PIC microcontrollers. 12F675 as Flip Flop. Code to make a 12F675 operate as a D-type or JK-type flip flop. 16f628a simple program code. I think that if you dont want to buyready made solution it is great. They have spent sometime trying to help you. I never realy had any.
Today, I made a small 3x3x3 LED cube with an ATtiny2313 that I had from about 2 weeks ago. Whenever I had to reprogram the LED cube when I thought of more awesome patterns, I had to get out my breadboard and then wire up everything again referring to pin-outs of ATtiny2313 and make sure everything is connected right and then finally upload the new code. So I went on to eBay and amazon searching for something to program these chips as I was planning on using these chips a lot in the future. After spending about an hour I just realized I was wasting my time as there was no way I was going to spend about 20-30 dollars on a simple shield. After thinking for a bit, I decided to make a simple and easy to make, ATtiny2313 programming shield, after I made it, all I needed to do to recode any of my attinys' is to just put it in the programming shield and just in a few clicks you have your code uploaded! No need to worry if everything is wired right and make sure there are no short circuits or anything that can short out the chip and fry it or anything else of that sort.
So now in this instructable I will show you how to build one of these shields for yourself! It costs almost nothing and takes only about 30mins or so to make it. So lets get started! Step 1: Materials. The image shows the pin-out diagram on how to wire up everything, you basically wire up everything as shown in the pin-out but not to the arduino directly but to a protoboard which has headers attached to them which can be attached to the arduino as a shield. Make sure you keep the pin-out diagram of the ATtiny2313 next to you when wiring up everything to avoid any forgetful errors that may occur. (Pin-out of ATtiny2313 Taken from Step 3: Working on the Actual Shield.
16f628a Programming Example
Start off by attaching the female headers in the center of the protoboard and then put the male headers in the arduino and then put the protoboard on it so as to get the exact position where to solder the male headers. Then connect the right pins from the male header onto the female headers according to the pin-out (Female headers are going to be used to attach the ATtiny2313 and male headers are going to be used to attach the shield to the arduino) Then add the 2 LED's and the capacitor and connect them according to the pin-out as well, make sure the capacitor is attached the right way if its a polarized capacitor. Then once everything has been wired up connect it to the arduino and upload a test code to make sure everything works fine (Instructions on how to do this on the next step), then once the testing is done you can add some hot-glue around the solder joints to make sure they are firm and don't make any sort of wrong connections. You could also use some electrical insulating gel/glue.
Step 4: Installing ATtiny Files. To program the ATtiny2313 there are 3 main steps; 1)Installing the ATtiny files 2)Setting up Arduino as an ISP 3)Connecting the shield and uploading the code First download this; This download includes the files that need to be installed on the arduino IDE in order to program and use ATtiny boards with the Arduino programming environment. By following the read-me, make sure that all the files are installed properly. As soon as they are installed, then when you go to Tools-Board, you should see a whole lot of new ATtiny options (There are ATtiny2313, ATtiny44, ATtiny84 and some ATtiny85 options). Step 5: Setting Up Arduino As ISP. Now once that is done, connect the shield to the arduino and you should see the Heart LED fading at a regular interval.
Now once you see the the LED is doing what its supposed to do, then attach the ATtiny2313 to the shield. Now go into the arduino IDE again and then go to Tools-Programmer and select Arduino as ISP. Then in the Tools-Boards, select the ATtiny2313 1Hz (Factory default sets the clock of the ATtiny2313 to 1Hz) After selecting those 2 options then just open up your code and then hit Upload to upload the code to the ATtiny2313 with the Arduino as an ISP (Simply put, you are programming the ATtiny2313 by using the Arduino to connect it to the computer) Once you are done uploading the code, then make sure you change the 2 options you changed back to the original so that you can upload code to the arduino again after doing this. Step 7: What Next?
So now since you can program and use an ATtiny2313, why not try use these for all your future projects instead of Arduino's? They are a lot cheaper than the Arduino (by 22-30 dollars) and they are capable of 18 I/O pins and they work with most of the common Arduino coding environment functions. The size of them is much smaller compared to the arduino as well which is very handy when trying to put things into small enclosures etc. The only drawback of the ATtiny2313 is that some functions are not supported by it, so projects involving them cannot be done and the amount of I/O pins are limited. But on the bright side, for small/simple projects these are great! If you make any projects based on the ATtiny2313 or if you make this programmer, then be sure to upload a picture or a video of it and post a comment below:).
You can download the files here: This is what the instructions in the read me say: Ensure the Arduino IDE is NOT running. Download the Arduino-Tiny archive (ZIP-file). Locate the Arduino Sketch folder. This is the folder where the Arduino IDE stores Sketches. Ensure the 'hardware' folder exists under the Arduino Sketch folder. For example, if the Arduino Sketch folder is. C: Projects Arduino Ensure this folder exists.
C: Projects Arduino hardware. Extract the contents of the archive into the 'hardware' folder. For example, if the Arduino Sketch folder is.
C: Projects Arduino After extracting, the following files should exist.
PIC programming with PIC Basic (1) Beginners mini-course (part 1) Be able to start with PIC Basic you must have any knowledge of electronics, program experience isn't been required, this is where this mini-course is for. This mini-course is to help you on your way so that you can do some expirience with by your own programmed PIC's with the, fully usable but only a few PIC-types is supported and a limit from 50 lines of code, but enough for this mini-course.
The bought version can program all PIC devices. The possibility's are so big, it's impossible to explain it all here, but once you get going, the rest will come from itself and you can look to program-listings from others, like the projects from this site, to learn further. Use a PIC16F628 A with suffix I / P or E / P. As programmer I advice the from Voti, which is not expensive (less than € 30,-) or build the from this site! We start rapidly with as example, blink a LED, gradually we go extending it. First connect the PIC It's important that the PIC is connected on a stabilised 5V power.
If you give already no attention to the power, the rest is also meaningless, the PIC can do strange things on a negligent 5V power. Pin 5 from the PIC16F628 A is GND (= grou nd), connect this one to 0V. Pin 14 is the Vcc, connect this one to +5V. Direct over pin 5 and pin 14 you must connect a multilayer capacitor from 100n (see photo), connect it as short as possible to the PIC. Finally connect a LED in serial with a 1k resistor between +5V and port A.1, that is on a 16F628A pin 18.
See also the electric scheme below: Adjust the compiler first! I get many times e-mails that the compiler doesn't work. Almost always have the users not adjusted the compilersettings, because they want start rapidly with the course. So please do this first, to avoid problems, specially point 1. Long folder- and pathnames give problems by compiling, that's why it is important that the compiler is adjusted the right way!
Users from a Wisp648 programmer or the Galva-Wisp PIC programmer from this site can couple this program to the PIC Basic IDE. To program the PIC itself must the programmer ofcourse connect (temporarily) with the PIC which must programmed (= the target PIC).
Program Type the program underneath in the PIC Basic IDE: DEVICE 16F628A;We use a 16F628A device CONFIG INTRCOSCNOCLKOUT, WDTOFF, PWRTEON, LVPOFF, MCLREOFF ALLDIGITAL TRUE;All analog inputs disabled Again:;Label with a name invent by yourself TOGGLE PORTA. 1;When on then go off, when off then go on DELAYMS 500;500 milliseconds = 0,5 second GOTO Again;Jump to 'Again' and go endless END;Program end First the lines which must stay nearly on top in every program. DEVICE is always placed on top of the program with after it which PIC device is being used. If the device you wish to use is supported by Crownhill Proton+, the text on your screen is highlight bold, this also happens to all functions and commands. So in this program it is: DEVICE 16F628A.
Under it CONFIG with INTRCOSCNOCLKOUT ( = internal rc oscillator), provisional we use the build in oscillator, a crystal is not necessary at this simple program. With CONFIG we can enable or disable the 'fuses' from the PIC.
Then ALLDIGITAL TRUE, which tells the PIC that we're not work with analog input signals, all 1 or 0, only +5V or 0V, only on or off, so all digital. ALLDIGITAL TRUE disables the analog to digital converters (ADC) and comparators (if they are present in the device you choose). Now we type in a label with a user-defined name, i.e. A label must placed at the beginning of a line, ends with a colon (:) and must start with a letter. In our example therefore: 'Again:' We have the LED connected on port A.1, these must blink, for this the command TOGGLE exists. TOGGLE PORTA.1 turns the situation of port A.1, when it is on then it is turned off and is it off, it is turned on again, this is called toggle.
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Then there must build a delay in, because else the LED blinks this way rapidly that it seems that it dims. Here are the delay commands DELAYMS and DELAYUS for. DELAYMS for milli second and DELAYUS for µsecond (microsecond). One second = 1000 milliseconds, so for a half second we write DELAYMS 500. The maximum value is 65535, about 65.5 seconds.
When you want a longer time, place a few from these commands under eachother. For extremely long times (hours, days) there are other solutions.
The LED must blink continue, by means of GOTO we let start him again, hence the logical name 'Again' invented. Therefore ' GOTO Again'.
With a push on F9 makes the compiler an assembler (.ASM) file and after that there becomes a.HEX file which you can program with your PIC-programmer into the PIC. If you have already installed a programmer in the PIC Basic IDE then you can push F10 which does the same as F9, but starts also your programmers program. Your first PIC-Basic program is ready! The upper part tells the Proton+ compiler for which type of PIC device the program must be converted and that there is no crystal used. The real program is the loop between 'Again' and 'GOTO Again'. A program runs the order which you write down or jumps to where it is sent to. In the program above stays TOGGLE PORTA.1, here it turns the LED on (or off, if it was already on) Then there stays DELAYMS 500, the program waits here 500 milliseconds, thus a half second.
If this time is past, it runs further and comes to 'GOTO Again'. Now it jumps back to the label 'Again' and this all starts over again, only by TOGGLE is the LED not turned on, but off and the next time on again, etc. Now your program must be translated in a for the PIC understandable program, a.HEX file. One push on a button ( F9 key) turns the Basic program into assembler (.ASM) (= compiling) and is also a.HEX file created for your PIC programmer, which can this file program into the PIC. To program the compiled program into the PIC itself you must thus have a PIC programmer. If you have a Wisp648 or Galva-Wisp PIC programmer, then here is a description how this goes with the program BumbleBee, which runs under Windows: It is very important to put information behind each line, what this line does, with the aid of the command REM ( = remarks). DELAYMS 500 REM = 0,5 second DELAYMS 500 ' = 0,5 second DELAYMS 500; = 0,5 second Above 3 lines are all three the same, my preference goes to ';' because assembler only works with the semicolon, if you after a while put some assembler lines in your code (with ASM - ENDASM) you don't have to switch over again, because you have this way already got used it.
Be careful with GOTO Above in the first example GOTO is used. Immediately here the recommendation to look out that it became no mess with GOTO's because at multiple use the overview goes quickly lost. The program mentioned below blinks also a LED without the use of GOTO but with the command WHILE - WEND. Modify the previous program in the program mentioned below: DEVICE 16F628A;We use a 16F628A device CONFIG INTRCOSCNOCLKOUT, WDTOFF, PWRTEON, LVPOFF, MCLREOFF ALLDIGITAL TRUE;All analog parts disabled WHILE 1 = 1;As long as 1 is equal to 1. TOGGLE PORTA. 1;When on then go off, when off then go on DELAYMS 500;500 milliseconds = 0,5 second WEND.execute this loop END;Program end The label 'Again:' and GOTO are replaced by WHILE and WEND.
This command runs the program between the words WHILE and WEND, here toggling from a LED, so WHILE 1 is equal to 1, WEND (go back to WHILE), so the LED blinks always. WHILE can't without WEND and they belong always both in the same program, else you get an error. Variable To make the function from WHILE - WEND more clear we let blink a LED 4x after the power from the PIC is switched on. Therefore we have to make a variable.
A variable is a name which can remember a value, in this case it's a teller (counter) which keeps in mind how many times the LED has blinked. Therefore exists the command DIM. With DIM you make (declare) a variable with a name which sounds logical to the function it gets, in the program below it is ' DIM LedTeller AS BYTE'. What now means AS BYTE?
Because a PIC does have a limited memoryspace, you have to give information till howfar you think the teller counts and a byte is 8 bits (= 8 memory places) which can have 256 different combinations, so the teller can count from 0 through 255 (not 256, namely 1 through 255 and the 256th is the value 0). You can also type DIM LedTeller AS BIT, this takes only 1 memory place, but then you can have only 2 situations, namely 0 or 1, off or on, and must the LED blinks more than 256x then you have to write DIM LedTeller AS WORD, a word is 16 bits, by this you can count till 65535, but it takes also twice as much memory space than a byte. You can count much further with DWORD, ( Double word) which counts from - through +, but it takes already 32 memory places (32 bits). And there is DIM LedTeller AS FLOAT, for numbers with a floating point, which takes also 32 bits. It is to be recommended to use DWORD and FLOAT as little as possible because calculations with these types use a lot of program-memory from the PIC, with BIT, BYTE and WORD you can usely do all the work. And finally there is AS STRING, voor text on displays, but more about this one later. Modify the previous program in the program mentioned below: DEVICE 16F628A;We use a 16F628A device CONFIG INTRCOSCNOCLKOUT, WDTOFF, PWRTEON, LVPOFF, MCLREOFF ALLDIGITAL TRUE;All analog parts disabled DIM LedTeller AS BYTE;Declare variable with name 'LedTeller' CLEAR;Clear all RAM area;Mainprogram WHILE LedTeller.